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zjguy721

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Should I increase the plug gap when installing an Accel Super Coil? I've been running the recommended .035, but I have heard I should bump it up to .040? Any input? Thanks.
 
That's usually the reason a high performance coil gets installed. A higher voltage can arc further. A longer arc makes a hotter spark, which means a more complete burn. The downside is that a higher voltage will chew up electrodes faster.
 
Ignition Coil

The voltage necessary for the ignition system is determined by plug gap and by rotor to cap gap. Wire resistance makes up a small portion.
With that said the Accel coil is going to produce the same amount of voltage than the stock unles you increase the gap. Air fuel ratio also plays a large part of required voltage, non emission cars in the late 60's ran 7500 volts as that was all that was needed. Leaner air fuel ratios or should I say more precise mixtures brought on by emission laws doubled the voltage needed to jump the gap. A high performance coil gives increased available voltage at higher duty cycle or more rpm. You runnung 10 grand on the tach? I didn't think so. High performance coils are really a feel good thing under normal conditions there not needed.
My 2 cents worth.
 
Re: Ignition Coil

dmr47 said:
The voltage necessary for the ignition system is determined by plug gap and by rotor to cap gap. Wire resistance makes up a small portion.
With that said the Accel coil is going to produce the same amount of voltage than the stock unles you increase the gap. Air fuel ratio also plays a large part of required voltage, non emission cars in the late 60's ran 7500 volts as that was all that was needed. Leaner air fuel ratios or should I say more precise mixtures brought on by emission laws doubled the voltage needed to jump the gap. A high performance coil gives increased available voltage at higher duty cycle or more rpm. You runnung 10 grand on the tach? I didn't think so. High performance coils are really a feel good thing under normal conditions there not needed.
My 2 cents worth.
Pretty much it. An ignition upgrade won't provide any performance or mileage increase ( in an otherwise stock engine) unless the original pieces were failing or worn or both.
When I first purchased my 5.9, I used the mileage average indicator as a reference. On my daily drive to the job and back, I averaged 13.8 for a few weeks. I then swapped out the toasted cap, rotor, wires and plugs. Mileage went up to 14.3.
Since I plan on a few engine mods later, a few weeks back I added an aftermarket box and coil. Mileage still holding @14.3. As an experiment, I upped the plug gap to .050", still @ 14.3.
 
In something that supplies a multiple spark like a Mallory, Accel or MSD, you increase the chances of lighting off if for some reason the first had failed.
In the case of an engine, you're lighting off an explosive mixture of fuel and air. Once it lights, it's lit. The intensity of the explosion doesn't change by the size of the spark tossed into it.
 
AMC_Racer said:
In the case of an engine, you're lighting off an explosive mixture of fuel and air. Once it lights, it's lit. The intensity of the explosion doesn't change by the size of the spark tossed into it.
That's debateable.

http://www.se-r.net/engine/specialty_spark_plugs.html

For example, Jacobs tested a 253-cubic-inch V6 engine, which was slightly modified; the factory called for a 45-thousandths (0.045") spark plug gap. With stock ignition, it produced 168 horsepower. Platinum plugs increased horsepower to 171. SplitFire plugs also brought horsepower to 171. Surface gap plugs increased horsepower to 172.5 - actually a little closer to 173. Jacobs then installed an Ultra Team and replaced the steel gapped spark plugs; horsepower increased to 180.5. Retaining the 0.045" gap, the testers installed the specialty plugs, and the horsepower fell to 178.5 for all three types. The reason for this power loss was because it required less arc-over voltage at the same gap; therefore, the peak spark power fell slightly.

Further experiments with the Ultra Team and different spark plug gaps produced some interesting numbers. With steel electrode plugs, the peak horsepower achieved was 186 at 0.063" gap. With SplitFire plugs, the peak horsepower achieved was 184, but it required a 0.067" gap, which caused some concern about the piston contacting the side electrode. The platinum plug achieved a peak horsepower off slightly under 185, with an optimum plug gap of 0.066".
 
AMC_Racer said:
I'd like to see all the actual dyno printouts on that one myself.
What was the state of tune of the engine originally.
Were all the pulls back to back.
The definition of "slightly modified".
A great explanation and good read:

If the spark is longer, the burning of the gasoline starts much faster and ends much faster.

It is also not a small effect. If you make the spark twice as long, it does not give you twice the speedup in burning - IT IS ACTUALLY MUCH MORE THAN TWICE !

Engineers call this a 'cubic' effect and it is related to how volume is measured by multiplying length by width by height.

If you make the spark twice as long, the speedup in burning is 2x2x2=8 times faster. Yes, eight times faster.

This faster burning has two good effects:

What we call 'Detonation'
or in slang terms 'Pinging'
is a chemical reaction that takes a certain amount of time to happen. If all the burning takes place super quick, there is no fuel left (called the 'end gas') to detonate.

Second benefit: If the burning is not all that fast, we have to start it earlier. This is 'ignition advance' where the spark is actually fired before the piston rises to top dead center. We need to 'advance the timing' this way to get the maximum pressure on the piston to happen about 10-15 degrees PAST TOP DEAD CENTER, but by starting early we suffer too - because the early burning pushes down on the piston before it reaches the top. In the USA engineers call this backwards pressure on the piston 'negative torque' and in Germany they call it 'Negative Work Index'.

So, big fat long sparks are good
IF THEY ARE USED WITH THE CORRECT IGNITION TIMING.

If big long sparks are used with too much advanced timing - like your stock ignition timing meant for factory spec short sparks - they can hurt and lead to more detonation unless you compensate by using higher octane gasoline.

In a similar way, 2 sparkplugs (like on the 5.7Hemi) are good in the sense that they double spark length - and spread it to two different spots.

3, 4 and even 13 sparkplugs have been tested per cylinder - see 'IC Engines' book by MIT professor R Taylor.

The Bosch+4 plug works by using a big 0.060 spark, but Magnum 5.2/5.9 V8 owners usually don't like it because it makes any pinging present worse.

It is especially hard to get a big spark to jump at full throttle (high pressure) and rpms above 4,000. Supercharging and Nitrous make it even harder still.

Old sparkplugs have bigger sparks naturally as the electrode metal corrodes away, but their dull rounded off edges really make it hard to get the spark to start.
 
Yes, I understand the theory is great but I'm a cold hard printed facts person.
As in my name here, I am a racer. With this said, I don't believe in "butt dynos" up to and including "g-techs". Hard cold facts in the form of a track time slip ( first choice) or a dyno sheet.
Dyno slips and g techs can be manipulated for any result you want.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
So, would the general consensus here to try a slightly larger gap ? I will have an Accel coil, new Accel cap and rotor, Taylor 8mm Spiro wire set, and new Autolite 3923 plugs. I am running a K&N FIPK, 62mm TB, and free flow cat/Gibson cat back (and probably adding a header soon).
 
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