At GSW I saw quite a few guys with long arm setups. The benifits are clear, but I'm checking out the availability. Rockkrawler makes a kit. Clayton makes a kit. Other people have made their own custom kits. Is what I've said above the only way to get long arms? Are there any other options out there? And yes, being a cheap bastion, price is very important. Any input is welcome though.
Long Arm Kit Availability
Beestieboy
21 - 35 of 35 Posts
I use Autocadd 2000 just because I am used to it, a side elveation of what you want and a bottom elevation should be sufficient... as said before its not rocket science... that said I am sure that you could more effectively model it in some program such as Ideas or Cateia, but I am no good at those. For the record, I put my jeep up on stands at the height I wanted it at, then measured, just to make things more accurate.. Its not too bad.
Tim
Tim
Joined
·
75 Posts
Thanks much for all the input. If I were to start working on my own, I'm kind of thinking I need to read up on what other people have tried and what mistakes to stay away from. Any good write-ups on the subject? Tim, I think I remember you saying you did one. I saw the pics of your project on webshots and liked it alot. It also flexed like a monster at GSW. I'm also wondering what steering mods would have to be made in order to compensate for the larger lift and travel? Thanks
Don't have a writeup, just pics. If you want to go through with this, just jump into the design/fab and you can e-mail me if you run into any problems. My only mistake was using heims at the UCA/LCA front Junction. This needs to be a rubber bushing to allow enouh Misalignment in the lenght direction. You outta see it really flex, there wasn't anything at GSW that was truly flexy... 
For steering and Miscelaneous Mods:
I had to relocate my swaybar mounts on the axle 2" higher to clear the drag link. I also had to relocate the swaybar forward an inch and down 2" so it doesn't get into the coils. Other than that, its pretty simple.
Good Luck-
Tim
For steering and Miscelaneous Mods:I had to relocate my swaybar mounts on the axle 2" higher to clear the drag link. I also had to relocate the swaybar forward an inch and down 2" so it doesn't get into the coils. Other than that, its pretty simple.
Good Luck-
Tim
Joined
·
75 Posts
Tim, do you have any clearance issues with having the tri link mounted on top of the axle? When you flex that doesn't hit anything like the gas tank or did you have to remove some stuff?
Joined
·
599 Posts
Beestieboy,
There are no clearance issues other than your muffler size and location. Think about it this way, the joint on top of the diff for the most part stays in one plain because it is near the center of the axles rotating axis. Yes it does move up and down but not enough to interfear with anything, also its in front of the gas tank. Most of the axles movement is out at the ends. And there actually is a lot of room for compression back there anyway.
There are no clearance issues other than your muffler size and location. Think about it this way, the joint on top of the diff for the most part stays in one plain because it is near the center of the axles rotating axis. Yes it does move up and down but not enough to interfear with anything, also its in front of the gas tank. Most of the axles movement is out at the ends. And there actually is a lot of room for compression back there anyway.
Joined
·
75 Posts
Word, Pearce. Thanks. I remember Tim saying something about having the joint right on the diff did something screwey to the pinion angle (Rockkrawler kit). Can you remind me about that?
Joined
·
599 Posts
Since Tim is on vacation and not sure if he will see this for a while, I'll give it a shot. I think what he was refering to is that the Rockkrawler kit uses the stock UCA body mounts for thier 3 link upper. And then uses a longer lower arm. And its the difference in lengths of the upper and lower arms that would change pinion angles a lot when flexing. If you have a long lower arm, your realy going to want a longer upper also for the rear. Maybe if he has time on his vacation to check the board, Tim can confirm or correct me.
Thats sad isnt it, wanting to take time out of the vacation to check the board, LOL
Thats sad isnt it, wanting to take time out of the vacation to check the board, LOL
actually no. because the mount is on the pumpkin, the pinion doesn't change under flex it changes when both wheels go up or both go down. when one wheel goes up and one goes down the pumpkin stays in the same place.Pearce said:Since Tim is on vacation and not sure if he will see this for a while, I'll give it a shot. I think what he was refering to is that the Rockkrawler kit uses the stock UCA body mounts for thier 3 link upper. And then uses a longer lower arm. And its the difference in lengths of the upper and lower arms that would change pinion angles a lot when flexing. If you have a long lower arm, your realy going to want a longer upper also for the rear. Maybe if he has time on his vacation to check the board, Tim can confirm or correct me.
Thats sad isnt it, wanting to take time out of the vacation to check the board, LOL
lotus
Joined
·
599 Posts
Well, you could be in a situation where your are pointed up hill, getting over top a 3 foot ledge and all the weight is on the rear. While trying to get the front up, the weight shifts to the rear end and changes the axle position. Mix that up with a large rock or two and you are twisted at the same time, not to mention a little go pedal to get up. Or you could be doing a steep down hill with all the weight is transfered to the front and the rear lifts some, although this would not put as much stress on the rear as would going up hill. Or even, you could be going over some repeating hills at a swift pase (whoop de doos ?), and your suspension would be compressing and releasing at the same time on both sides of the axle (just read your other reply and you mention this already). I understand you point and it is valid, but the axle still can move up and down. And if you can keep your rear arms closer to the same length, there will be less pinion change, than if the upper is stock length and lower long armed. Both styles may work perfectly fine, I just prefer one to the other. And I do most my wheeling at Tellico, although I am looking to go more new places these days, most recently Moab which is kick a$$. :thumbsup:
21 - 35 of 35 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
