I NEED HEAT, I"M FREEZING!!

delboy · Feb 3, 2005

Error 53 is the Mode Door is not able to move through its full range.

From memory I think that is the HVAC door located near the driver footwell. If you crawl down there and look to the righthand side at the back you will see the side of the black plastic HVAC unit. Attached to it you will see a white plastic cams and a metal wire lever. Turn the igition on and you should see the ATC cycle the HVAC doors (Including this one) when it does its startup diagnostics.

As it tries to cycle that door through its range you should see the problem, either the wire lever is not connected to the white plastic cams, or one of the pieces is broken or damaged. Check that out and tell us what you find.

Jeepinparrothead · Feb 3, 2005

yeah I figured that out already. This is not the first time that has been broken. Actually, the first time the lever itself broke and then it had to be replaced. Oh to the tune of 2.37 for the lever and 850 for the labor. Yeah, No mechanic around town would touch it, had to go to the stealer. Said they had to take the whole dash apart to do it. Ended up being like 12 hours of labor they said. Anyway I know what that problem is the bigger one is what is wrong with my heat. I do not overheat at all but the upper rad hose has nothing flowing through it. And I don't have heat that gets hot at all. That is what the problem is.

delboy · Feb 3, 2005

replace the hose that is collapsing, if you haven't done that already.

check for air in the hose, jiggle the hose around a little with the engine running.

if that doesn't do it you heater core is blocked, pull both hoses and run water through in the reverse direction

Skimore11 · Feb 3, 2005

I read the entire post waiting for a eureka moment. I am having similar problems with my heat on 03 WJ. I took it to the dealer once and they said to burp the air out of the radiator etc. I haven't done it cause I am lazy don't have a garage and well the sporadic tempid air is still warmer then the single digits we have had north of Boston. If I ever get it to the shop before the warranty is up and they stumble upon the problem I will let you know.

MaineZJ · Feb 3, 2005

here's an idea, dissconnect the return line for the heater core and run the engine- see if anything comes out

Ken L · Feb 3, 2005

Did you ever back flush the heater core as was suggested earlier? This sure smells like a plugged core. Especially where you mention that the return hose is cold after the engine warms up.

Jeepinparrothead · Feb 3, 2005

Skimore11 said:
I read the entire post waiting for a eureka moment. I am having similar problems with my heat on 03 WJ. I took it to the dealer once and they said to burp the air out of the radiator etc. I haven't done it cause I am lazy don't have a garage and well the sporadic tempid air is still warmer then the single digits we have had north of Boston. If I ever get it to the shop before the warranty is up and they stumble upon the problem I will let you know.

Did they tell you how to do that? Also Maine I have done that and yes stuff comes out. I don't have a clue how much and how hard but it was a good flow. I really don't know why it was cold that day. I was told by all of my mechaics not to rinse out the heater core that is bad news but if everyone else has done it then what can I hurt. I would like to know how to burp the system though. Oh, all of the hoses and pump and t-stat and all is brand new. So that is not the problem. The rad is as well.

MaineZJ · Feb 3, 2005

you try it without a thermostat? having that upper hose crush is a bigger issue.

Skimore11 · Feb 3, 2005

I was told by the dealer that they "burped" the radiator. I was also told by someone on here that that was a possiblity. The idea being that there is air in the system, no one could tell me how, and that when the air pocket moves over the t-stat that you get a false reading. That makes sense for me since the heat goes in and out quite quickly.

I can't confirm this as working since (insert lame excuses) but I was told to park with the front end up hill wait for it to cool and open the radiator to get excess air out and top off fulids.

Jeepinparrothead · Feb 4, 2005

Yeah the front end in the air trick. Done that, didn't help.

Maine what did you mean by that is a bigger problem. Meaning that the heat is one thing and the collapse is a seperate worse thing. If so how. I figured they are related. I am getting ready to turn it in. I just know that they are going to do one simple thing and it fix it but they tell me that it needs a new heater core. Which is like 23.50 but 300 to install. So I am just trying to figure it out my self for like 3 months. I'm an accountant I'm cheap.

dondandd · Feb 4, 2005

When the hose collapses, can you remove the radiator cap, and will the hose return to normal? Sounds like you are getting a vacume in the system, and that could be preventing it from purging all the air (maybe). I would check/replace your rad cap, make sure the overflow hose and tank are clean and free from restrictions and that the overflow hose isn't pinched in something... also make sure the connections of the hose on the radiator neck and overflow tank are tight... use some sort of hose clamp to be sure.

Don.

delboy · Feb 4, 2005

the heater core is plugged, just bite the bullet and replace it.

If someone will do it for $300 labor that's a good deal.
Otherwise do it yourself, set aside a full day and just go at it. There are some good instructions in the archives.

I've pulled the HVAC out twice now, took a full day first time, about 5 hours second time. But to be honest if you can afford it, pay someone to do it.

Skimore11 · Feb 17, 2005

Took mine in under warranty again and finally got them to figure out what was going on with the heat. Unfortunately it was a bad day at work and didn't get to talk to the mechanic. As you may recall my heat was fading in and out quite quickly. Well they replaced the Insturment Control Assembly and the AC and Heater Control. So far so good but I will see if it holds over time.

Jeepinparrothead · Feb 17, 2005

Yes when I remove the rad cap the hose will return to normal. So now I am going to go and check all of the return hoses and all. Thanks for the hint.

I NEED HEAT, I"M FREEZING!!

delboy

Jeepinparrothead

delboy

Skimore11

MaineZJ

Ken L

Jeepinparrothead

MaineZJ

Skimore11

Jeepinparrothead

dondandd

delboy

Skimore11

Jeepinparrothead

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