Grand Willys Project - Page 131 - North American Grand Cherokee Association
North American Grand Cherokee Association

Go Back   North American Grand Cherokee Association > Grand Cherokee Forum > Jeep Grand Cherokee Lounge--WK
Nagca.com is the premier Jeep Cherokee Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-01-2019, 07:14 PM   #1301
zjrog
Senior Member
Grand Junkie
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Tooele, Ut
Posts: 463
Default

Stunning. Amazing. Incredible. Awesome... I do not have an adequate vocabulary!!!
__________________
When it comes to Heroes, RENEGADES are mine!
1995 Grand Cherokee 4.0 Up Country, 31s and 2" BB
zjrog is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 07-01-2019, 09:30 PM   #1302
Gojeep
Moderator
Grand Addict
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 679
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by zjrog View Post
Stunning. Amazing. Incredible. Awesome... I do not have an adequate vocabulary!!!
Wow, that is a lot of superlatives!
Thanks mate.
__________________
Marcus


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Gojeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2019, 06:17 PM   #1303
wildspear
Grand Zebra
Grand Addict
 
wildspear's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: western Michigan
Posts: 579
Default

Look very awesomeness!!!
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
wildspear is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Old 07-06-2019, 04:51 PM   #1304
Gojeep
Moderator
Grand Addict
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 679
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wildspear View Post
Look very awesomeness!!!
__________________
Marcus


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Gojeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2019, 05:01 PM   #1305
Gojeep
Moderator
Grand Addict
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 679
Default


Time to start making some chassis cab mounts. I have gone thicker than stock using leftover 4mm-5/32" plate that I boxed the chassis with.


Drilled some lightening holes. I make the hole diameter half the width of the area where it sits. This is good structurally and proportionally.


I bought this brake press especially for this job years ago.


One problem you face though once the flanges are taller than the width of the web, is that it bends the first 90 degree fold back out some when it clashes with the side of the brake while you are doing the second bend. You can avoid this by not going to a full 90 degree fold on both sides, and leave it at that, or make the web wider as the height of the flange increases. Sometimes a bit of both is used.


I wanted to keep 90 degree flanges without tapering the web wider so hammered the side square again over the edge of the bench. The thicker the steel, the bigger the hammer to get it done.


The large hole at the end is to take the step in the bush to keep it centrally located. I much prefer rubber for better isolation of noise and vibrations. I bought a complete set including nuts, bolts and washers to suit a 1964 - 1967 GM Chevelle convertible. They are 52mm-2" in diameter.


These sit a bit above the chassis rails so the tab at the end goes over and down to the other side of the rail. This greatly increases the weld area at the top and prevents such a long bracket trying to tear off the side of the chassis.


Here it is tacked into place directly under the drilled plate welded at the bottom of the B pillar when I built them long ago.


The front mounts are a lot shorter due to how much the cab tapers. I have made them with the angle in the web as the frame tapers inwards where they attach. This way the mounts are still perpendicular to the centreline. I keep all the holesaw slugs too as they make great heavy duty washers and for filling holes in chassis rails etc.


Have this tacked in and all the mounts I bolted in. I have measured the compression on the rubber to keep them all the same. I will fully weld them with the cab off for easy access once I am sure no changes are needed.
__________________
Marcus


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Gojeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2019, 03:09 AM   #1306
Briian-Emmons
Moderator
Grand Junkie
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Basingstoke, England
Posts: 498
Default

the mounts look good Marcus
Briian-Emmons is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2019, 03:29 AM   #1307
wildspear
Grand Zebra
Grand Addict
 
wildspear's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: western Michigan
Posts: 579
Default

Fantastic work
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
wildspear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2019, 05:17 AM   #1308
Gojeep
Moderator
Grand Addict
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 679
Default

Manys thanks. Not as exciting at the mock up post, but still moving forward.
__________________
Marcus


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Gojeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2019, 05:46 AM   #1309
Gojeep
Moderator
Grand Addict
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 679
Default


When building the chassis I knew I didn't have quite enough room for the front cross member between the front of the engine and the back of the fan, so left it out for the time being. I have both the 4 cylinder one on the bottom and the 6 cylinder one at the top to choose from.


I'm going to go with the 6 cylinder version as it drops down and has a cutout for the harmonic balancer. I only have the width of the narrowest part of it to fit between the fan and the bottom pulleys! And that was after I had already moved the grille forward 40mm-1.5" when reprofiling the front guards.


I find making a cardboard profile of the cross member helps visualise what needs to be done rather than start cutting away steel. It doesn't clear the underside of the pulleys, but not that far off. Can see why the 6 cylinder one was a better choice


The bottom plate is just spot welded on and was already coming apart. I need the flanges removed for more clearance anyway, so will cut it off for now.


I was surprised how clean it was inside! I had soaked it in the citric acid bath 5 years ago and then just pressure washed the inside from ends to rinse it.


The cutout for the balancer was not long enough as it needed it to clear the A/C compressor as well, so will reuse the factory pressings and move them outwards.


Can see how it goes together while still only using steel from the original cross member. They just swapped places after the fill in pieces were cut down.


Now even though the longer cutout means it clears the front of the engine, it only just fits between the engine and fan without clearance. Rather than make the whole cross member even narrower, I will get it to go under the engine to give me the clearance I need. I cut a V into it but not all the way down, leaving 13mm-1/2" at the bottom. When I did the chassis rails I left 25mm-1".


Leaving it partially uncut not only keeps everything in alignment, but gives you a radius at the bottom. The more you leave the bigger the radius. Takes very little pressure to bend it and I tack it in place while under the press.


Welded up and you can see it looks more factory than just a mitred cut.


I coated the inside with zinc paint before welding the bottom plate back on again.


I put a block in the middle a bit taller than the gap and then tensioned the cross member over it with clamps at each end. Then tacked on the bottom plate.


While still under tension I stitch weld a section before quickly doing directly opposite it. Ten leave a space before doing another stitch weld. Even though the tension over the block will help stop it from trying to straighten out some, it still good practice to balance your welds to stop twisting.


Once fully welded it was smoothed out. You can also see where I had hammered in a scallop to give clearance over the power steering rack.


Plenty of clearance over the rack, more than the minimum 10mm-3/8" clearance required.


Now it seems superfluous to have lengthened the cutout when the engine still hangs over it, but the reason is I now have just enough room to unbolt the subframe, with engine and everything in place on it, and move it back towards the firewall and drop the whole lot out the bottom of the chassis. Makes future engine or transmission changes easier.


Worked out well with just using the one bend in the cross member to clear the pulleys.
__________________
Marcus


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Gojeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2019, 06:44 AM   #1310
Briian-Emmons
Moderator
Grand Junkie
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Basingstoke, England
Posts: 498
Default

cross member looks great Marcus
Briian-Emmons is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 06:59 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.