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-   -   '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ (https://www.nagca.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71856)

Aquila77 05-24-2019 10:11 AM

'95 Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ
 
6 Attachment(s)
1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo for sale, $3000 OBO. Solid body. 4.0L I-6, 42RE transmission. Currently has NP242J transfer case installed, comes with NP231J transfer case and complete rebuild kit for it. Chain slips on the 231, just never got around to rebuilding it but have the kit, which includes a new chain and oil pump. New tires and alignment (includes the best one of the old tires as a full size spare tied on the roof), new park brake system from handle to shoes except the handle itself (new forward and rear cables, replaced the adjuster, new brake shoes and hardware, new rear rotors). Four wheel disc brakes, new rear rotors, four new calipers and new pads, new middle brake hose (between forward and rear steel hoses to allow for axle travel). New front wheel bearing assemblies. New radiator, water pump, thermostat, and water temp sending unit (the one at the back of the block). New battery. New headlight lens assemblies and bulbs. New heavy duty steering stabilizer shock from Autozone. Could use a stronger one made for lift, oversize tires, and offroading but it is new. New transmission fluid filter. New transmission fluid pan and oil pan (both changed simply because a newer one was available at no cost). Has 52" 720W equivalent LED light bar installed over windshield and two LED light pods mounted to the front bumper. All are wired into a 6-switch box mounted under the dash, below and to the right of the steering wheel for easy access. Two switches are in use for the lights, four are currently unused. Planned to add ditch lights and rear facing lights along with a winch, so it's ready for those additions. Currently has a Soundstream brand Apple CarPlay compliant DVD touchscreen double DIN stereo installed and a new Rockford Fosgate speaker in each door. Not designed for a double DIN stereo, so the dash trim panel around the stereo has been dremeled to fit the stereo, but it will include a replacement trim panel to swap back to the factory or a single DIN sized stereo. Cigarette lighter has been replaced with a USB port wired into the stereo. Lighter is still there, just tucked away out of sight but can be put back without much trouble if necessary. New exhaust. 330,000+ miles on odometer, engine and trans were swapped at around the 227,000 mile mark with an engine with 157,000 miles. New motor mounts were installed at the time of the engine swap. Interior is in decent shape, especially for the age. No rips in the cloth seats, some carpet staining in the trunk area. Includes many extra parts; A/C compressor, 136 amp direct swap alternator (just needs the wiring switched from the 4 post type to the newer 2 pin type), replacement dash trip panel for around the stereo, replacement dash trim panel for across the top of the gauges and above the stereo (current one is broken on the stereo end), replacement ball joints (current ones are still good), set of new headlight bulbs (in addition to the new ones currently installed), NP231J transfer case and rebuild kit, along with the driveshafts (front one needs the Spicer driveshaft centering yoke replaced, I can provide a source for the part if need be) and the correct transfer case shift handle shift gate.



Needs a new oxygen sensor but otherwise runs without issues. I planned to replace the shocks, but the ones on it are ok just not great. Hood, left fender, and front left door are a slightly different shade of dark green from the rest of the body. One is moss green, the other is hunter green. Not a huge difference but you can see it if you know to look for it. Equipped with factory tweeters in the dash, but I didn't replace them when I replaced the door speaker. Planned to but didn't get to it. Has the factory Infinity Gold amp under the back seat but no idea if it's doing anything. As far as I know it's still hooked up, just not sure if it works. Rear right door has an electrical problem that I haven't figured out yet, likely a ground problem. When properly hooked up, the power window will go down without issue, but won't go back up. Reverse the polarity (switch the two wires on the window motor) and it will go up but not down. Also, the power door locks al work except on that same door. Power lock on the hatch works. All doors and hatch are keyed the same but don't match the ignition. Equipped with remote keyless entry (IR based one that I've never seen before), but I don't have a keyfob for it. Available after market for around $150. One set of keys, plus one Valet key for the doors (doesn't work in the ignition or on the hatch).



I'm sure I'm forgetting some of the work I've done to it, but that's the majority of it. I have receipts for most, if not all, of the parts I've installed and the work done by others (tires, alignment, exhaust). Any questions please let me know. Located in Chesapeake, VA. $3000 OBO.


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