i been working on a project to fit a couple 12" subs in back faced up so the whole back will be flush so i can stil put stuff on top of it. anyone have any good looking custom sub setups they would like to show me. thanks
I'm in the process of building an all inclusive unit. It's a sub box with another box for all my trail junk. But, its all going to be one big bahemuth taking up the entire rear of the jeep. I'll send you some pics of it when it's done.
those plastic or fiberglass boxes that fit over the rear wheel wells are not good. they rattle like B*&^es. your best bet is 3/8 inch composite wood or custom laid fiberglass. When you want subs to sound their best you want no rattle - this includes change in your cup holder, lighters in your glove box, loose interior panels, damn near anything.
dyno mat is sweet but it is heavy and expensive. i use foam or other lite rubber mats to insulate my hatch, overhead console, center console and a few other places i cant remember right now.
i was painting my new exhaust yesterday when i noticed i have almost no rubber covering on my under-body. so i went out and got some cheap stuff that says it protects and dampens road noise.
as far as building a box, 3/8 is nowhere near enough, most subs require 3/4" MDF for all structural walls (meaning all walls on the outside) and 1/2" for any interior (for ports and supports) as far as fiberglass goes, depending on what you are doing you want to use as much wood as you can and then a thick fleece with chopmatt on top of it, nothing else will really stand up to the pressure... when i did JL W7 boxes i used all 1 inch walls and the front was 1.5 inches... so if you are planning on building something you should really try to follow the spec sheet for your subs... as far as dynomat goes, there are a lot of cheap substitutes like fatmat (which is what i have) and a lot of others, but from useing both i think dynomat is a better product but is very expensive, i got 100sqft of fatmat from ebay for 130 shipped, where dynomat is about 100 bucks for 20sqft. hope this helps a bit, by the way you can see more of my custom stuff at this page...
wow Jeepy5Point2 that looks incredible, you do that yourself or at a shop? if i ever do subs again i want them out of the way like that instead of the giant box i used to have. [smilie=bal_cool.gif]
i worked at Circuit City when i did the amp rack and the sub, i worked at Tweeter when i did the box, now i am back at Circuit again, but not in the shop im working at the computer desk now... they cut hours and money was more imporant at the time than enjoying my job, anyway it wasnt that hard (the amp rack took some thought) and i think it sounds great...
yeah it does. you were def right about the wood thing. it was a while ago so i cant remember if i mis typed it or not but your right. im thinking about getting two L5's. Does it bump pretty good?
yea i just went with the 1 just to fill the sound, i used to have 2 12's in a band pass, but from my system 2.0 i was trying for cool/useful/simplier... i used to have 2 amps (800 for the subs 600 for the highs, a 2 farad cap, PSOne, power inverter, 2 volt meters, all mounted on the roof you can see those pics on my web site, but this one was made after i learned to fiber glass, and i like it a lot more, i was really happy with how strong just the one sub was, it isnt anything like when i had 2 and with the 750.1 amp that i have it is 400 for the sub and 350 for the highs, i am only at half the wattage but it still sounds good... and for the audio heads out there, both were ture rms wattage... i dont go for the fake numbers... anyway thanks for the compliments, i dont have too many people around here that understand that the inside of cars to flood sometimes and fiberglass doesnt swell like wood and it would take a lot of water to reach that amp! :mrgreen:
Hmm was your amp too big to fit under the driver's side rear passenger seat? I have a JL Audio 300/4 under there powering my whole system (in 150X2 mode...150 to the 4 Alpine coaxials in the doors and the 2 stock tweeters in the dash and 150 to the JL Audio Stealthbox in the rear). I've been thinking of a way to use the space adjacent to mount a separate sub amp but that means moving the bottle jack somewhere and I refuse to be without a spare and a jack.
yes this amp was way to big to fit under the seat, this is the 3rd system i have had in this jeep, the first was a small sub amp under the passenger rear seat but that was no where near enough room to fit the other 2 systems.
most people will just screw the amp to the box... this is a bad idea because what if you need some extra room, you need to take not only the box out but the amp too...
usually i would mount the amps to the back of one of the rear seats so you just take the box out and leave the amp, you just need to be a lil carful when putting things on top of it.
i was joking around one day when i flooded the inside of my car (came very close to hitting the amp under the seat) that it would be cool to have it on the roof... a few days later it was do or die and i took out a knife and cut the head liner, about 2 months later getting sick of nothign being there i finally built the first box (you can see the pic on my web page the link is below)... it looked kinda ugly and i wanted to upgrade everything and in the mean time i learned how to fiberglass, so what you see now is what i have.
i know i could have answered with a simple yes it was too big, but i am very bored.... good luck with your system
The Stealthbox I'm using uses the base level 10W1v2-4 from JL Audio ( 10-inch 150W RMS) which sounds fine most of the time but, of course, lacks the low bass extension. I've been thinking of chucking it and going with a custom enclosure for a single 12 but then I had another thought...could the box be modded to hold a high Q 12? The problem is that I think from the factory the woofer is sealed in the box and you aren't able to remove it without destroying the box. Also looking over the JL Audio site there isn't a spec for the net internal volume of the Stealthbox.
i was only over at tweeter for about 4 months and didnt deal too much with the stealth boxes, i was a fan of building my own with wood or fiber glass... so i dont remember too much, but i thought the ones we had the subs would come out of them just like any normal box that is made.
the problems you would face would be that those boxes are designed for the car and the sub to be a perfect match. the air space is dead on taking the walls, cornors, and even the amout of space the sub takes up into account.
you will have a very tough time fitting or even modding the box to fit a different design... im not sure if that is just a square box you have or it is a "jeep" model box, but the best thing you could do it take that design and build a new one with that idea in mind...
not much but it works for me, just some mdf board, steel mesh, and 1/2" square tubing, i wanted a small-ish box for my subs and then a guard over them that would take some abuse when i use the cargo area...
and if you look close you can see a soundbar...:mrgreen:
Sure, I went wheeling all the time. I didn't do all of the work myself. I have a friend who ones a custom stereo shop. The whole project took 10 months to do and is very strong. The amp rack is covered by a 3/4" piece of plexiglass so it can handle any weight you put on it.
I sold this jeep right before coming overseas to work. I loved that jeep and wish I never sold it
never mind, i just looked at your cardomain page and you have everything needed to wheel it... thats a lot to keep clean on the trail. looks good
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