Installing Iceland Offroad Bumper/Flares - WJ - Page 2 - North American Grand Cherokee Association
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Old 06-20-2010, 01:54 AM   #11
85IrocZ-28
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The rear flares are done and all that is left is paint. Here is the step by step.

I started by removing the rear inner panels to access the back side where the flares will bolt. I also removed the drivers rear inner door panel to see how to get the outer lower fender panel off. I realized that this is not needed, so don't take your inner door panels apart.

This pic shows the clips that hold the panels on. I used a hook tool to pull it together and then gently slide the clips outward. to get the rear panels off, I just pulled the weather stripping off of the bottom and up the sides of the back hatch. I also pulled the weather stripping back from the sections of the rear doors where the interior panel meets it. You must also remove a 1 inch plastic panel that goes from one side of the jeep to the other, right behind the spare tire hole.
There were also four screws holding my panels on, two per side. (they held four little clips that you would hook a cargo net to. Other than that, there were several clips like this:

The green thing was the auxiliary lighter outlet. You also have to remove 4 additional screws on the CD changer lid if you have that, and slide the panel up and off. Then four ten mm bolts hold the player on. With this panel removed, you can see a black 2 piece panel that keeps moisture out of the interior. Take that out to gain access to the inner fender to bolt the flares on. Also, use a t-50 torx driver to remove the seat belt to gain access to where the front bolt will go.

The drivers side was easier b/c I didn’t have to deal with the CD changer. It is harder to access the back bolts though as the gas hoses are near the rear and you don’t have the second access panel. There is plenty of room to reach in the one panel opening with your hand though (see the black thing).

I removed the outer door panels by carefully inserting a razor blade up between the panel and the door and cutting the two sided molding adhesive. I used a flat door panel tool wrapped in thin cloth at the top to pop the plastic inserts out of the holes you see at the top of the panel. When I put the panel back on, it just popped into place. First though, I cleaned the door and panel better to remove the molding tape and applied new tape (the same stuff used above to center my bolt holes.)

This one shows the three holes for the door section drilled and primed with an acid etch primer that is green.

I then installed the door section, and used a file to trim the fiberglass and make it fit tight.

Then I cut a section of the panel (where a flare bolt is) so that I could set it in place (without pushing the plastic clips back fully In place. I then marked it and cut the panel with a jig saw and a metal blade.

I then placed the panel back on with the flare.

Then I lined the rear section of the flare up, and drilled those holes. After putting it in place for a minute, I outlined where I needed to cut.
*****NOTE***** I DO NOT RECOMMEND CUTTING HOW I HAVE DONE HERE. I WILL SHOW SOME PICS IN A MINUTE OF AN ALTERNATE WAY THAT MAY BE EASIER FOR YOU.
I chose to do it this way because I have been around the auto body world and recieved a great hookup on some great materials. Anyways, I lined it up and started cutting.

I cut a section of the rear bumper. I saved this and will re-insert it into the inner section of the bumper and use it for my mud flaps later.

I then cut a section of the plastic support. There is still a piece that runs just under the metal at the top of the bumper. This keeps the bumper attached, I will have to add a support later.

Cutting as much metal as I did leaves some gaping holes in the body.

In the pic above, I cut out a section of the inner metal. I essentially separated the inner body from the outer body. I DO NOT RECOMMEND YOU DO THIS, BUT WILL SHOW AN ALTERNATIVE LATER OF HOW YOU CAN DO IT DIFFERENTLY.
That little piece you saw cut away on the pic above, I inserted it between the inner and outer panels:

This pic shows it pushed up inside between the inner and outer panels.

I welded it to the outer panel, then folded the lip over the inner panel and tack welded it in place. These small welds hold everything in place, but don't provide structural strength. With this method, the strength comes from the body panel adhesive seen below.


In this pic, It shows the inside of the fender well. You can see the outer panel, the inner panel, and the section in the middle coming up that I inserted and tack welded in place. The white you see IS NOT SILICONE. It is body panel adhesive, similar to what is used from the factory to seam unibody’s together. It is a two part product. It is sandable, paintable, water proof, you can weld through it when it is wet…it dries super hard and is like welding two panels together. The stuff is about $50 a tube, and I used one on each side. You also need a special applicator gun. This stuff is the BOMB, and it is a great way to strengthen the body panels and tie everything together. It was much easier for me to do it this way. It is made by valvoline, called Poly Grip I think. 3M has a product too. This is an excellent way to go if you have autobody experience, or if you have a professional install it for you.

Others will likely use the pizza cutter and weld method I will show in a later post. It is also very strong, but would have been more time consuming for me.

This shows more of it on the outside. It was rock hard in 2 hours.

After the panel was welded and bonded together, I masked things off (used the flare box from Iceland for the tires, and shut a tarp in the door. I sprayed it with rubberized undercoating. I also used some black silicone from home depot to touch up a few spots to make sure I am water tight.

It looks nice and new now:

Also, in this pic below, look just inside of the door section of the flare. Where the inner and outer sheet metal meet, I cut out the factory foam, installed a bit of body panel adhesive, and finished it off with a rubber trim piece that you can get from hardware stores. I will have to take another pic of that. It keeps you from getting cut on the sharp metal, I then back filled the gap with black silicone.

EDIT- Here is a pic of the lip at the rear of the rear doors. After removing the factory foam, I installed this trim peice on both sides to protect from the sharp metal. It works great and looks clean:

That is it, the flares are on!



Left to do...undercoat the front inner fenders to cover the white overspray, and paint the flares to match. I will paint them the factory white.
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99 WJ Limited 4.7 | 6.5" Rockkrawler LA | 35" Goodyear MTR Kevlar's on MB TKO's
Yukon 4.56 Gears | QD2 - rocking the Varilocks | Surco Rack with HID's | LED rock lights | Smittybilt 8k
Iceland Bumper / Flares / Rock Sliders | Protofab Rear Carrier | Flowmaster | SuperChips | JKS Discos
My Jeep won the war, your Honda mowed my lawn.
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Last edited by 85IrocZ-28; 08-07-2010 at 04:18 PM.
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Old 06-20-2010, 01:58 AM   #12
85IrocZ-28
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HERE IS WHAT I RECOMMEND FOR THE REAR UNLESS YOU HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH BODY PANELS AND CAN USE ADHESIVE TO KEEP YOUR RIGIDITY AND STRENGTH.
These pics are from WJ 2000.
I used the program "paint" to make the red lines, so it isn't perfect but gives you the picture. Just barely trim the lip off, then cut up to the fender flare line several times as seen in red.

Then use a hammer to fold the tabs of metal over:

Pay particularly close attention to this pic. The inner and outer fenders have about a 1/2 gap all the way from the bottom of the rear doors up until this point.
Just above the rear bumper on both sides, the inner and outer fender separate. If you cut as I did, you will have a 1 inch gap between the panels. I made a new peice of metal that I inserted, tack welded, and bonded with panel adhesive. The bends seen in this pic below will just barely cover that hole. It is the most critical area, and the reason that I recommend others use the pizza cutter cutting and hammer folding method that WJ 2000 did in these photos.

Then weld and grind smooth.

Then you would just have to use something like silicone to seal it all up. The reason I recommend his way to others is that is is very strong. It may take longer. But if you don't have access to the body panel adhesive, and haven't used products like that before, stick with this method and you will not go wrong. Turn your heat down on the mig (that is what I used anyways) so that you don't burn through the thin panels.


WJ 2000 used rivets to install l-brackets under his front flares. This gave him a mounting point for his front inner fender liners. It is a great idea, follow his advice if you want to run the inner fender linings. He is awesome and provided pics and advice that helped me a ton on this build!

Look for the L-bracket down on the front bumper. He now has something to screw the liner to.

Thanks again William G!!!!!
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99 WJ Limited 4.7 | 6.5" Rockkrawler LA | 35" Goodyear MTR Kevlar's on MB TKO's
Yukon 4.56 Gears | QD2 - rocking the Varilocks | Surco Rack with HID's | LED rock lights | Smittybilt 8k
Iceland Bumper / Flares / Rock Sliders | Protofab Rear Carrier | Flowmaster | SuperChips | JKS Discos
My Jeep won the war, your Honda mowed my lawn.
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Last edited by 85IrocZ-28; 06-29-2010 at 02:37 PM.
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Old 06-20-2010, 09:32 AM   #13
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Awesome work Will, All these pics will help our readers with there install, Theres Iceland fenders & bumpers are Awesome, and they look good too''
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Old 06-20-2010, 10:37 PM   #14
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K- I added a couple of pics and edited above. If anyone has questions, don't hesitate to send me a PM. WJ 2000 is awesome and can help with some of your questions too about the inner fender liners, or folding the rear lips over.

I am very pleased with the quality and look of the Iceland products and recommend them to everyone. The bumper is lightweight, strong, and looks great. This is the only company I am aware of that makes a flare for the WJ right now. Bushwacker may be the next to come out with one, but I would still recommend this. They are WAY stronger and will outlast thin plastic against the rocks, trees, and sun fade.
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99 WJ Limited 4.7 | 6.5" Rockkrawler LA | 35" Goodyear MTR Kevlar's on MB TKO's
Yukon 4.56 Gears | QD2 - rocking the Varilocks | Surco Rack with HID's | LED rock lights | Smittybilt 8k
Iceland Bumper / Flares / Rock Sliders | Protofab Rear Carrier | Flowmaster | SuperChips | JKS Discos
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Old 06-21-2010, 04:40 AM   #15
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I love the jeep. Just curious HOW strong the bumper is? If I am out wheeling and need to get through a thin area I dont want to destroy a bumper. About how thick are they? And do you know if anyone has done a strenght test to them? Only reason I ask is because that is one HELL of a good looking bumper. Thanks for any helps.
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Old 06-21-2010, 09:07 AM   #16
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I don't know strength numbers, but I think you would really have to smash a rock pretty hard to do any damage at all. The bumper is SUPER LIGHTWEIGHT as it is fiberglass. Think of a boat, this is marine style fiberglass. You can hit it on rocks and might chip it, but it is easy to repair and paint. It is 1/4 inch thick or more, depending on the spot. In some areas, it is 1/2 inch thick (up front where it mounts to the winch cradle. I was impressed that the bumper even came with the lights, and they are very bright. It comes with a wiring kit, but I just wired them in to the factory limited harness. I have been wakeboarding/waterskiing for years, and we have hit many rocks with boats. I am not worried about damaging the bumper. The selling point for me was: 1-Great looking 2-Very lightweight.

I have ridden in Jeeps with steel bumpers, and it changes the ride drastically. They feel front heavy.

Emil has some videos on the site www.icelandoffroad.com of someone driving their XJ on top of one of the XJ flares. If a flare can handle the weight of an XJ, it is plenty strong. I think that the fenders would cave in on the Jeep if something pushed hard against the flare. The flare is not going to fail. If the flare was hit hard from the front or back, it may break the bolts off. But if that happens, it would be easy to repair with fiberglass resin. Just glue the bolts back in place.
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99 WJ Limited 4.7 | 6.5" Rockkrawler LA | 35" Goodyear MTR Kevlar's on MB TKO's
Yukon 4.56 Gears | QD2 - rocking the Varilocks | Surco Rack with HID's | LED rock lights | Smittybilt 8k
Iceland Bumper / Flares / Rock Sliders | Protofab Rear Carrier | Flowmaster | SuperChips | JKS Discos
My Jeep won the war, your Honda mowed my lawn.
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Old 06-21-2010, 03:48 PM   #17
mperk12000
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Thanks for the info. I will more than likely try to build my own Steel bumper, but if I somehow can get the wife to approve it (not likely) Then I think I will go with Iceland bumper. I am definitely getting the flares no matter what. They look great and from what i've read function great.
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Old 06-21-2010, 10:24 PM   #18
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Sounds good, best of luck with your build. If you build the bumper before you install the flares, make sure you build the bumper wider than the factory flare section of the fenders. It would look funny to have your fender flares wider than the bumper you build. These flares work well with many aftermarket bumpers because they all stick out a bit further than the factory body panels.
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99 WJ Limited 4.7 | 6.5" Rockkrawler LA | 35" Goodyear MTR Kevlar's on MB TKO's
Yukon 4.56 Gears | QD2 - rocking the Varilocks | Surco Rack with HID's | LED rock lights | Smittybilt 8k
Iceland Bumper / Flares / Rock Sliders | Protofab Rear Carrier | Flowmaster | SuperChips | JKS Discos
My Jeep won the war, your Honda mowed my lawn.
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Old 06-22-2010, 12:28 AM   #19
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I have one more idea regarding the front flares. If you want to keep the liners, you can use rivits and L-brackets to keep them in place as seen above in the pics. There is another method you could use. The existing sheet metal can be cut along the red line that I have drawn in the photo below.

If you look at my fender, I acually already had a section cut out to give more clearance at the rear of the front tires. There was also a section sliced out of the rear of my plastic body panels, and it was moved back towards the door. The only important thing I am trying to say here is that you can fold the metal over and make new attachment tabs.

Look at the arrow and circle. I actually had two tabs per side to hold my trimmed plastic body panel in place. Just replicate this idea at the right spots along the fender flare. My red marks are not where you would cut, just an illustration. I would hold the plastic inner fender insert up to the fender, and mark it for cutting where you would actually want to leave this type of a tab.

Use pliers to bend the tabs over as mine were for the little body panel. Then hold the inner fender in place, and mark the metal tabs. Then use a drill to make a small pilot hole and use sheet metal screws to attach the insert.


Here is another pic of what the tab would look like. Again, I used these tabs to hold the plastic body panel in place, but they could be replicated to hold the inner fender liner.
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99 WJ Limited 4.7 | 6.5" Rockkrawler LA | 35" Goodyear MTR Kevlar's on MB TKO's
Yukon 4.56 Gears | QD2 - rocking the Varilocks | Surco Rack with HID's | LED rock lights | Smittybilt 8k
Iceland Bumper / Flares / Rock Sliders | Protofab Rear Carrier | Flowmaster | SuperChips | JKS Discos
My Jeep won the war, your Honda mowed my lawn.
Check out my BUILD THREAD

Last edited by 85IrocZ-28; 06-29-2010 at 02:50 PM.
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Old 07-04-2010, 08:22 PM   #20
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To give the rear bumper a little more rigidity, I decided to re-insert the cut sections of the rear bumper that I cut off.


Here it is as I am inserting it into place:


I used epoxy to adhere it, and used a little bit of duct tape to hold it in place while the epoxy dried. I used 80 grit sandpaper in between the two pieces to give the epoxy a good surface to grab onto. You can see it is now in place, I will just have to add a bit of paint to touch it up and give it the smooth factory look.


And now that the front bumper and flares are on, I decided I couldn't stop this addiction. I need rocksliders, so back to Iceland. I picked them up from Emil on Wednesday. They look great. I will paint them before the install.



It seems like I have been spending my free time building up the Jeep this year, and haven't been wheeling much. It will be Moab ready for the fall weather though...
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99 WJ Limited 4.7 | 6.5" Rockkrawler LA | 35" Goodyear MTR Kevlar's on MB TKO's
Yukon 4.56 Gears | QD2 - rocking the Varilocks | Surco Rack with HID's | LED rock lights | Smittybilt 8k
Iceland Bumper / Flares / Rock Sliders | Protofab Rear Carrier | Flowmaster | SuperChips | JKS Discos
My Jeep won the war, your Honda mowed my lawn.
Check out my BUILD THREAD
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