JKS adjustable control arms

[MJS]

John-

Sorry, I don't have the spherical ends, just the rubber bushings. The one time I ramped my ZJ at ORGS was about 800 on proabably a 20° ramp. That's sufficient flex for me but I would be concerned about the longevity of the rubber bushings and the control arm mounts. By design, spherical ends, johnny joints, etc... will not have the dampening power that rubber bushings have. That is why the JKS design looks so appealing since it has rubber bushing to soak up any noise or vibration but can still articulate via the threads. As long as these threads don't wear out like Teras, I think this is the best of both worlds.

[anestech]

These arms do look nice, but for $1000 for a set, wouldn't it be better just to spend the extra $500 (plus welding fees) for clayton's kit and get the benefits of LAs?

[ZJohnR 5.9]

Good point, anestech...the only bummer (for me at least) is deciding on whether or not to make that permanent decision Then again, you only own the vehicle once, so might as well enjoy it I guess another consideration (for me) is my slow-growing pockets <he he> One good thing is you can buy the arms one pair at a time...hmmm, decisions, decisions!

[Krash80]

Originally Posted by johnand

Any machinists or mechanical engineers want to enlighten us on thread count and strength?

I have always heard/have been taught/have read that for higher strength applications, finer threads are preferred. As long as the material that the threads are holding to is strong (ie. steel as opposed to wood), a finer thread should hold better than a coarse thread. Why this is so i'm not exactly sure cause logically it would seem that a bigger/deeper/thicker thread would be stronger, but i guess that's not the case. However, as mentioned above, there would certainly be a point of maximum strength as the threads got finer...they could get so fine that the mating surfaces would be almost smooth and then wouldn't hold at all, right? Anyway, what i mentioned as far as strength goes applies basically to NC (national coarse) and NF (national fine) threaded bolts.

And just for the hell of it to add to the discussion, the Johnny Joints that i have are 1", 14 TPI...which is a fine thread, so apparently Currie knows that fine threads are preferred as well.
Also, i was just putting new springs in the front of my rig, and my longarms weren't quite flexing as well as i needed them to to get my driver's side spring in, so i undid my jam-nuts and viola', instant droopage of axle. Looks like i'll be loosening my jamnuts for trails!

-Ron-

[anestech]

Originally Posted by ZJohnR 5.9

One good thing is you can buy the arms one pair at a time...hmmm, decisions, decisions!

Clayton will sell you the crossmember and fronts for $900 then the rears later for $600. Plus I believe he will do layaway (like 3 payments of $500). I love making decisions harder

[ZJohnR 5.9]

See, now you had to throw the wrench in the gears <he he>

I had a question about the long arm kit, with only running the 4.5" RE...would the arms hit the floorboard when flexin', at that "low" (compared to others runnin' the LA 'kit) of a height?

[anestech]

Originally Posted by ZJohnR 5.9

I had a question about the long arm kit, with only running the 4.5" RE...would the arms hit the floorboard when flexin', at that "low" (compared to others runnin' the LA 'kit) of a height?

As long as you have proper lenght BS extensions, then you should be fine. I don't know the specifics but norcaljr has 3" front and 2" rear extension and his LAs don't hit.