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Old 05-06-2017, 12:53 PM   #1101
Briian-Emmons
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it's amazing
great work as always Marcus
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Old 05-07-2017, 01:39 AM   #1102
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Many thanks. Just hope I can get the shape even once it is fully welded. :O
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Old 05-07-2017, 06:22 AM   #1103
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I am sure if anyone can it will be you.
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Old 05-07-2017, 12:12 PM   #1104
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you will get it looking perfect Marcus
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Old 05-09-2017, 05:47 PM   #1105
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I'm always impressed with your patience. There's many people that have good skills but quit before all the items that make something so distinctive that only experts can see what has been done. If you have a time limit, it's not apparent. It doesn't look like the dog helps much.
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Old 05-09-2017, 09:34 PM   #1106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wfoguy View Post
I'm always impressed with your patience. There's many people that have good skills but quit before all the items that make something so distinctive that only experts can see what has been done. If you have a time limit, it's not apparent. It doesn't look like the dog helps much.
Thanks mate. Fortunately have no time limit so can gain more skills as I do my best on each part.
Dog not of much use I'm afraid.
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Old 05-13-2017, 10:42 PM   #1107
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I had some wheeling marks that I had to get rid of. Didn't want to stretch it more as already had too much crown at one end. It would have been at my end when wheeling as Peter noticed I was not holding the sheet high enough so it caused more crown and the tracking marks to occur. All part of the learning process. To remove the marks I pressed the sheet out flat and hammered down with the wooden mallet or nylon hammer. Also used the flat faced hammer over the rubber block when it was up the other way. So long as one side has give it will reduce stretching while hammering.


To let more crown out on the high side I slightly stretched, using hammer on dolly, along the edge where it was higher. A crown is always framed along the edge by a less stretched or a shrunken edge. If a panel is wheeled the same right to the very edge, it would actually not crown and just be a bigger thinner sheet.


So this is how it is sitting having scribed around the edge of the sheet and then cutout the perimeter. It is now sitting on the supports with the blocks on it which worked well as could slide them to change the height until the edges aligned.


Where there was no gap I tacked first. This pulls the part where there is a little gap closed with the shrinkage. I used a 1mm cutoff wheel to shave down the tacks top and bottom until a razor blade thickness was still proud so it could be hammered flat to remove any shrinkage.


This a quick run down of my setup on the tig. The metal is 0.9mm and so the tungsten, with 2% lanthanated, is the same thickness along with the 0.9mm mig wire used as a filler. The torch angle to wire is kept around 90* to each other. I just drag the wire along in front of the weld pool and it just gets drawn in, in a little trail. I only want a little as more just means more grinding. Sometimes I even use the lay wire technique with 0.6mm wire where I place the wire over the join and it just melts into it as you travel along.


I just start at one end and go as far as I can without stopping. Re-position myself and keep going.


Where the panel sits high after welding I planish the weld down with a flipper or flat face hammer with a dolly directly underneath to stretch it. More force is applied hitting down than pushing up with the dolly. Where it is low I push up harder with the dolly than hammering down to lift the panel while stretching. The panel will move either way depending in which direction more force is being applied


I also sometimes find it easier to hit up from underneath using a hammer with a higher crown directly on the weld with a dolly on edge above it. This lets you know by the sound that you are hitting in the right spot when you can't see the hammer.


I had this low spot in one corner even before tacking. This was only going to get worse after welding the seam.


After stretching the weld back out again I hit directly up with a high crown hammer making these nice lumps!


Started to smooth out the lumps using hammer on dolly to even it out.


Switched to using the flipper while pushing up from underneath with a matching crown dolly to smooth it out even more.


Another side welded. Can see the waves caused by the weld shrinking.


The waves disappeared again even though only the weld was hammered. See it like pulling a draw string bag closed while welding and then it flattening out when you stretch it back again.


It was suggested to me to do the straights first and leave the corners until last to make it easier to control the distortion. After each side was done I stretched and planished the side until it was back to the way it was before welding.


I have done the corners now and all went well. So would use this technique again. I still have a lot of work ahead of me making the crown even as was not quite there before welding it in either. Just struggled on my own to get it right when it was flopping around. Hoping now it is complete it will be easier to get right. No oil canning at all so at least that is in my favour.
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Old 05-14-2017, 01:17 PM   #1108
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Looks absolutely amazing Marcus
Keep up the great work
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Old 05-14-2017, 06:15 PM   #1109
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Many thanks Briian.
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Old 05-21-2017, 03:19 AM   #1110
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I don't have any weld distortion left but some of the infill panel shape still needs correcting from wheeling. I found just hitting up with this compound dolly with glancing blows from underneath really worked well. I directed the blows away from the high spots towards lows. It kept the panel nice and tight with no oil canning. Works well on a low crown panel.


Also did refinement using the flipper as a dolly above while hitting up with the lead beater bat. Would sometimes have the heel or toe of the flipper on the high spot with a little pressure while hitting up on the rest of the flipper from below with the bat. I found the weight of a full dolly above too much.


With one side exactly how I wanted I checked the other side at the same spot to see how it compared. Look at the ends and they are 6-8mm, (1/4"-5/16"), too high. This is still what is left from what was wheeled too much at this end.


Being a low crown panel I used a 5" shrinking disc over the high area making sure it never got more than honey in colour. Did not use any air or water to cool it as don't want it to harden. But look at the size of the oil can that sucked down within a minute! Gives you the overall size of what will need to be shrunk.


What I do is then shrink from below and it will pop the oil can back up, but not quite as high as before. So shrink the top again and it will go down and back a forth you go. If you can't get to the other side, use some pressure to keep the bulge on the side you can get to. Here I am almost there but the panel was still loose. So I keep shrinking back and forth until it feels tight all over with no loose areas and it matches the profile.


Here I have done the sides but the middle still needs more work. The light is showing a high spot. I ended up using the same gauge for the profile from one side to the other. It is still a compound curve as the edges where the ends of the gauge or strip sat, had an arc from one side to the other.


I ran the strip disc over the whole roof so I could better see how even it was.


The gauge showed less than 2mm difference one side to the other so just about there.


At the end of the night I gave it a good squirt of lanolin oil so it wouldn't flash rust as a lot of moisture in the air at the moment. I rub all over it with the same old hand towel for this and then remove any excess with another one.
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