|
|
|||||||
| Home | Forum | Register | Photo Gallery | Donate | Members List | Advertise | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Auto Escrow | Auto Loans |
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
Junior Member
Grand Rookie
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 24
|
So I want to confirm information that I have gathered and fill in some questions I have that I cant find the answers to.
What I have found so far (I have a 98 jeep GC 5.9 v8) Need to do f to r * Front zj v8 springs * Lifted front springs or 70's 2wd ford springs (Yes I know about rough ride) * Adjustable front track bar (Have access to one) * Rear track bar braket (Have a beefed up one) * New extended shocks Ok now the stuff I have read to help me for Rear tires centerd in wheel well and to have less chance of death wobble? (Mabey you guys can help clarify) * Modified WJ rear lower CA to move rear axle back * Rear ZJ upper and lower up front so you can align better and have less chance with death wobble and what not. (IF wj arms wont help bring the axle back to center or atlest move it back a inch or so what junk yard control arms could I use??) And with all this I can fit 31's?? Thanks!!
__________________
5.9 ZJ Grand Cherokee Build thread: Last edited by 4XFUNZJ; 03-05-2013 at 06:43 PM. |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |||
Advertisement | |||
|
|
#2 |
|
Administrator
Grand Master
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,458
|
That is a good list, but here are some of my comments
-In all honesty I don't think there is a differecne in V8 and I6 springs, so any ZJ front springs in the rear will work -I would spend some coin on some lifted ZJ springs for the front -A rear track bar bracket will eventually rip off due to the force, I woul drecommend an adjustable rear track bar with no bracket. -I must say I am not familiar with the WJ rear lower control arms swap, so that may or may not work. -If you are going to get new control arms in the front, why not just buy a complete lift and forget about swapping springs -To clear 31s, all you really need is a 2" BB, which would be less expensive and less hassle -If this is a wheeler, you need to address your sway bars, or your flex will be limited
__________________
94 ZJ waggy 44 front with chromo shafts and an Aussie; ford 8.8 rear with Dutchman shafts and a Detroit; 35" PBRs; Clayton long arms with 6" BDS springs; 4.88 gears; exo cage Build thread - http://www.nagca.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34548 |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Junior Member
Grand Rookie
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 24
|
Thanks for the deatailed reply!! So some more backround info.
I work at the locak jy. And can get everything listed for free. My plan is to be ready by Moab Easter Jeep Safari. Thats how the braket got so beefed up in the first place lol just want it to get buy for Moab then get a rear adjustable. I only plan on a #3 rated trail. I dont want to really spend any money on a short arm kit I want to go long arm as soon as I can afford it. And I want atleast 31 ill stuff the bigest tire possible!!! For sway bars for now I would like to do a quick connect conversion. By the way watch your build threads and glad to have you giving advice you seem to know your ****. lol
__________________
5.9 ZJ Grand Cherokee Build thread: |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
Junior Member
Grand Rookie
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 24
|
But do you think putting the zj rears up front will do anything for camber and less chance of death wobble??
__________________
5.9 ZJ Grand Cherokee Build thread: |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Administrator
Grand Master
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,458
|
If I had to do over again, I would have never messed with the short arm lift and gone straight to long arms; however, I did learn a lot about wheeling while on short arms and 31s.
As far as control arms, I think the factory lower arms are the same length front and rear, I may be wrong, it has been a long time since I looked at factory ZJ arms.
__________________
94 ZJ waggy 44 front with chromo shafts and an Aussie; ford 8.8 rear with Dutchman shafts and a Detroit; 35" PBRs; Clayton long arms with 6" BDS springs; 4.88 gears; exo cage Build thread - http://www.nagca.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34548 |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Junior Member
Grand Rookie
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 24
|
Yea that's exactly what I learned with my dads ZJ. Once we went long arm it changed everything!!
This is the info I have found •all front upper control arms- 15 1/8” •all rear upper control arms- 13 1/4” •all TJ lower and ZJ front lower arms- 15 3/4” •XJ front lower control arms- 16 1/4” •ZJ rear lower control arms- 16 11/16” •WJ front lower control arms- 16” •WJ rear lower control arms- 19”
__________________
5.9 ZJ Grand Cherokee Build thread: |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Senior Member
Grand Master
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Land of the Lost, Utah
Posts: 1,343
|
You do realize that once you move the rear axle back(which is totally unnecessary for 31/32's) that you will need to take a closer look at the drive shaft length right? And good luck with EJS, most of us avoid it like the plague although we might go down for the day to see the vendors.
__________________
Just a couple of Jeeps.... If I were that cheap I wouldn't be driving a Jeep! |
|
|
|
|
|
#8 | |
|
Junior Member
Grand Rookie
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 24
|
![]() Quote:
__________________
5.9 ZJ Grand Cherokee Build thread: Last edited by 4XFUNZJ; 03-06-2013 at 07:25 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
YETI - The Abominable WJ
Grand Master
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Utah-243 miles from Moab
Posts: 3,679
|
I will respond to a few items, my thoughts are in italics.
* Rear track bar braket (Have a beefed up one) If you wheel in Moab, this is going to break eventually. Do it right, get an adjustable. Ok now the stuff I have read to help me for Rear tires centerd in wheel well and to have less chance of death wobble? (Mabey you guys can help clarify) DW is a front axle thing, not applicable here. Also, no need to keep the axle centered. You want it as far forward as possible without rubbing so that it can swing rear and upward without rubbing. BTW, short arms do really wierd things when flexing offroad, especially when you have a rear tire dropped, then you back up...the tire basically goes underneath the body...scary. (IF wj arms wont help bring the axle back to center or atlest move it back a inch or so what junk yard control arms could I use??) And with all this I can fit 31's?? Personally, I would just move the F springs to the R, get adjustable trackbars, new shocks, longer sway bar end links, and not worry about the control arms for now. Save your $ to get a long arm kit or make your own long arm kit. Wheeling in Moab, you need long arms. This is why: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABvEyKL0LC0
__________________
99 WJ Limited 4.7 | 6.5" Rockkrawler LA | 35" Goodyear MTR Kevlar's on MB TKO's Yukon 4.56 Gears | QD2 - rocking the Varilocks | Surco Rack with HID's | LED rock lights | Smittybilt 8k Iceland Bumper / Flares / Rock Sliders | Protofab Rear Carrier | Flowmaster | SuperChips | JKS Discos My Jeep won the war, your Honda mowed my lawn. Check out my BUILD THREAD |
|
|
|
|
|
#10 | ||
|
Junior Member
Grand Rookie
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 24
|
Quote:
Quote:
And I only plan this kit to hit moab once or twice other than that going long arm!! I know the track bar braket will break cause the kit this came off he actually ripped the braket off and the subframe was still attached!!
__________________
5.9 ZJ Grand Cherokee Build thread: |
||
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement | |
![]() |
| Tags |
| front to rear, lift kit, spring swap |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|