WJ kickdown cable adjustment - North American Grand Cherokee Association
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Old 03-18-2012, 11:04 PM   #1
cykaaro
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Default WJ kickdown cable adjustment

Well, the transmission isn't kicking down properly. Was way to harsh, and have been trying different positions (remove the retainer and adjusted and then put it back in) Have it on the soft side now, but is definitely better, but not perfect.

So my question is, does anyone know the proper procedure for setting up the kickdown cable properly? I'm running the I6 flavour.

Cheers!
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:56 AM   #2
AndyZJ
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I was under the impression that the kickdown linkage adjustment is just to take up the slack in the cable. If you adjust it so that its tight but not pulling on the throttle body lever then its fine. Atleast thats how I adjusted mine when I first got it.
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:04 AM   #3
cykaaro
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Where it attaches top end, the piece that goes into the bracket has a spring and the inside piece has a bunch of grooves running up/down would be the best way to explain it. There's a white clip that goes into the grooves holding it in place, keeping the cable in one position. Originally it was causing it to kick down way too hard, so have been playing with it to see how it changes the transmission response. What I don't know is the proper way to adjust it to where it should actually be. From what I can tell, it seems to length or shorten the sheath. In doing that, figure it changes the length of the cable somehow thus changing how it functions.
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:31 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cykaaro View Post
Where it attaches top end, the piece that goes into the bracket has a spring and the inside piece has a bunch of grooves running up/down would be the best way to explain it. There's a white clip that goes into the grooves holding it in place, keeping the cable in one position. Originally it was causing it to kick down way too hard, so have been playing with it to see how it changes the transmission response. What I don't know is the proper way to adjust it to where it should actually be. From what I can tell, it seems to length or shorten the sheath. In doing that, figure it changes the length of the cable somehow thus changing how it functions.
With engine off, press the D shaped release button and push the cable/housing all the way back in to the adjuster. Release the button and twist the throttle linkage to wide open position. You'll hear it 'ratchet' as it self adjusts itself. That's it. Factory.
*Now, if you're going to 'tweak it', you can move it back 'n forth a click or two at a time and test drive it. Going too far either direction can cause serious tranny damage.

Last edited by kennyc; 01-06-2014 at 09:45 AM.
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Old 03-21-2012, 03:07 AM   #5
cykaaro
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Thanks for the help. The kickdown cable though is different than in your pic. Found a pic with what mine looks like, but thinking it has to work very similar.

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Old 03-21-2012, 12:51 PM   #6
kennyc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cykaaro View Post
Thanks for the help. The kickdown cable though is different than in your pic. Found a pic with what mine looks like, but thinking it has to work very similar.
Yes, that looks different than my '93. If you remove the clip, adjust whatever moves there towards the adjuster, put the clip back on and twist the throttle to wide open, does it ratchet out, or just stay in place?
I would google for tv cable adjustment on your particular jeep. No matter 'how' it's adjusted, I know it can damage your tranny if it's misadjusted.
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Old 03-21-2012, 02:07 PM   #7
cykaaro
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Well, after the tranny incident, once all was back together there was a couple issues happening. One was the front drive shaft being compressed too much, which I think is the front CV joint giving the problem (fixed with the 2" lift). And the other was I was finding the kickdown being too hard. Felt like the whole rearend was going to come off. Usually was between 1st and 2nd I felt it. Played with the cable a bit and was a bit better but not great. Went to my mechanic but at slower speeds didn't feel as bad as the small highways I drive on so wasn't totally sure, but I knew it wa to do with the kickdown cable

What I did was pushed it all the way toward the tranny as it would go without too much pressure. Inside I saw the 'teeth' but didn't know exactly how they were to work. Incidently this all DOES have an effect on gas mileage. SOooo. On the weekend at the wreckers they had two WJ's, one being the 4.0 but missing the engine. Cable to the tranny was still there, and had the retainer clip I was missing as I suspected there should be something there. So sat I started playing. Got It so it woldnt kick hardlty at all but had to hiot 3000rpm's to change gear. Any more the one way it kicked. So tried the other way. Wasn't feeling right so went a few notches further which is where I am now.
So how it's shifting now is almost a "soft" feel to it. In the power band when it shifts to 2nd it usually drops noticeably and has to build back up. Now? Smoooooth. Obe right into the other with no power loss when it changes. If I hit the gas it takes off as usual, and find it doesn't jump up always in rpmto hit the next gear on spme big hills. The biggest surprise was gas mileage. Filled up today and eas guessing I was getting over 600km per tank. According to the program I use to track my mileage/gas. Is 11.09litres/100km. I'm like that. Just hopeing its not a bad thing for the tranny though.
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'89 XJ 5spd - restoration project
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