For the Rears, to get the cylinder back in am I supposed to push it back in with a clamp like the old days or use the little tool that the Guy from sears sold me to rotate it back in with. He said he was pretty sure I am supposed to use that but I cant figure out where it fits in the cylinder? Any Ideas

My $0.02 - Just did my fronts this past Sat and used the old clamp method. It worked fine and was a good forearm workout as well.

PS> Careful, if your system is full of fluid you can push the break fluid out of the PB assembly and make a hell of a mess.

What is the tool that you have? I'm not sure that I have seen one.

Peter

Same difference. The threaded rod with a flat plate on it just uses the old brake pad for the circular washer to press against. The flat pad goes inside of the outer caliper.

WARNING
When doing this make sure to open the bleeder screw and let the excess fluid exit there instead of backfeeding all the way to the master cyl. This could cause ABS accumulator or pump problems if there is junk in the lines. My shop has never had to replace ABS system because of doing it improperly but I know other shop owners who have (this is rare but why risk it).

The tool says Disc brake piston tool for chrysler ford and GM. Which one is the bleeder screw? If i open it wont all the fluid come out of the whole system? Will I have to bleed the brakes?

Skeeter,

Where is the bleeder screw? It's news to me - first time owned anything w/ ABS.

Thanks,

Peter

If it matters it is a 98. Also my resivoir is at the add line. Thx

The calipers are all the same. Doesn't matter if it was on my POS (piece of sh*t) 85 ranger I rolled or on my zj or Durango. ABS is just a suppliment system that uses a magnet sensor and a metal tooth ring at each wheel. As a tooth passes under the sensor it creates an electical charge (millivolts) back to the abs computer which interpets these into rpm (pulses actually). The RPM is then compared to the other wheel sensors (called wheel speed sensors) to make sure that it is within a certain % of each other (around 15% I suspect). If one wheel has stopped spinning (locked up on ice) then the abs computer "sees" the difference and assuming that your standing on the brakes (computer knows how far your pushing via brake postion switch) it will pulse the brake/brakes quickly to allow the tire to rotate since it will stop faster. Thats all the system does (hopefully).

I explain this so that you can understand what is happening and it stops (pun intended) being black magic. So to answer your questions. The bleeder screw it the little screw with a little nipple on it that is on the inside upper portion of the caliper above where the piston sits. Its purpose (forgive me if you already know this) is to allow the elimination of air in the hydrolic system. Basically put a wrench on it and work it free (usually 8 or 10mm) so that fluid just starts to seep out. Then snug it a little and proceed with brake job. When it come time to compress the piston just open the bleeder a little and slowly compress the piston until it has bottomed out. The brake fluid will squirt out of the bleeder whenyou do this. Then tighten the bleeder screw and top off your brake res. Be sure to clean the fluid off any paint as it will eat the paint after awhile.

Skeeter You rock. One more Q? Do I need to worry about air getting into thru the bleeder while I have it open. In other words I always saw my dad hook a coke bottle up to it with a rubber hose and some fluid in the bottle and I would go pump the brakes until all the bubles were out.

If I understand you right, open the bleeder a turn or so, then compress the piston, then close the bleeder. No coke bottle needed and I dont have to wake up my wife to go step on the brakes, Right??? Thanks Again

Skeeter???

I have never used a coke bottle in several hundred brake jobs. The bottle is a good visual sign to see the air coming out of the fluid for those who are unsure of themselves (nothing wrong with that either!) watching the stream coming out of the bleeder. The bottle also helps prevent mess. I assume when you used the bottle that you just kept pumping the brakes without opening and closing the bleeder after each pump. Assuming I am correct, then the way we do it is to have someone pump the brakes a few times with the bleeder closed and then have them hold the brakes down under pressure and open the bleeder till the stream is gone (will shoot several feet-watch your eyes) and the person says "floor" indicating that pedal is on the floor. At this point the person leaves their foot on the pedal on the floor until the bleeder is closed again and then they let up on the pedal thereby drawing more fluid out of the res.

Having said all that, you are not bleeding the brakes at all since you have not introduced air into the system. Air only comes in when you replace a hydrolic component (ie brake hose or caliper or master, etc). When you open a bleeder as you noted it will start to leak fluid out since gravity is forcing it out (gravity bleeding). Air will not go in unless someone pushes the brake pedal and the releases it with the bleeder open. The suction would then suck air in. All that you are doing when pushing the piston in and openning the bleeder is relieving pressure though releasing excess fluid.

Wow, Thanks for all your help. I appreciate it.....

Not a problem. I really don't mind now since I don't do it during the day anymore (sold the shop). Besides there are many questions that I can't answer. Now sounds like you need to get those brakes finished. Also don't forget to wipe the fluid off the keyboard as it will eat away at the circuit board underneath.

For the Rears, to get the cylinder back in am I supposed to push it back in with a clamp like the old days or use the little tool that the Guy from sears sold me to rotate it back in with. He said he was pretty sure I am supposed to use that but I cant figure out where it fits in the cylinder? Any Ideas

Just helped a friend out with rear discs on a Saturn, we needed to use the little tool to rotate it back in. On some vehicles (not your jeep) the piston rotates, it has something to do with the emergency brakes. On these vehicles, a C-Clamp won't do any good, you need something to rotate the piston as pressure applies.

On some vehicles (not your jeep) the piston rotates, it has something to do with the emergency brakes. On these vehicles, a C-Clamp won't do any good, you need something to rotate the piston as pressure applies
I HATE that style of brakes. A real pet peeve of mine. It is possible that Sears was talking about that style of "push and twist" but I had assumed not since the Jeep doesn't (or didn't anyway) use that style of brakes. I guess the tool guy at Sears wouldn't have a clue about that though would he? You probably hit it square on.

thers no need ot open the bleeder, i just replaced all 4 rotors and pads and didnt bleed a thing, now i brake like a charm, used the old clamp method 2? did you check your e-breaks for wear also? mine didnt exist when i replced the rotors so i had to do those 2

Greengrandy,
I am sorry but I have to disagree on this one. I know that the factory service manual (atleast my 94) says just use the c-clamp and compress away but as an ASE Master tech and shop owner I know that this is a dangerous way to do it. If there is any crud in the lines it can get forced back into the ABS pump ruining it. I know of atleast one local shop that this has happened to. Also Wagner recommends doing it my way for the same reasons as well as Raybestos. They tell you this in their training seminars the local parts stores put on. Now at the risk of sounding foolish I admit that I have done more than my fair share of just pressing them back but I really try not to on an ABS system. Hope I didn't offend you.

i would agree to do what you want, i am just saying that i didnt, and my girlfriends grandfathe who has been a mechanic for over 30 years and is also ASE certified in many areas found that there was no need, but that is my preference and i havent died yet so I dont mind :pant:
I used raybestos by the way, top o the line and the work great, good qualty parts, no offense taken

Hehehe. I actually prefer Wagner :D

How do you check the e-brake? It works great with almost no effort so I assume it is fine. Thanks

take the caliper off the rotor, remove rotor, there is e-brake, if it works fine then dont bother it is kinda time consumin expecially if it is functioning fine