While repairing my rear Ford radius arm brackets I also converted to rear disk brakes. This is all you need to convert a D60 to disk brakes.

http://www.voltage.net/~rmwc/zpix_files/stuff/DSCN1026tn_.JPG
The rotors are 8 lug '95 Dodge 3/4 ton 4wd truck light duty. (there is also a thicker heavy duty rotor) The calipers and pads are very common. They are for '76-95 Dodge "light truck." Rotors are $30 each, calipers new are $26 each and pads $18. The brackets for the calipers are $5 each at the junk yard. (caliper and bracket and line $15 each at the junk yard) The total is about $140 for everything NEW! (obviously I used junk yard calipers)

http://www.voltage.net/~rmwc/zpix_files/stuff/DSCN1025tn_.JPG
The caliper bracket has a flat spot on it. This will be important in a minute.

http://www.voltage.net/~rmwc/zpix_files/stuff/DSCN1029tn_.JPG
First take the wheels off and axles out.

http://www.voltage.net/~rmwc/zpix_files/stuff/DSCN1031tn_.JPG
Then take the back plate off.

http://www.voltage.net/~rmwc/zpix_files/stuff/DSCN1032tn_.JPG
Notice the flat spot on the top of the mounting plate? This fits almost perfectly with the flat spot on the caliper bracket.

http://www.voltage.net/~rmwc/zpix_files/stuff/DSCN1033tn_.JPG
First you need to hammer the studs out of the hub and remove the drums. Then reverse the process to install the rotors. Then reinstall the hubs.

http://www.voltage.net/~rmwc/zpix_files/stuff/DSCN1028tn_.JPG
This is how your new DISK ROTORS will look! WOO HOO!! :cool: You're stylin' now DUDE! :thumbsup:

Grind about an eighth of an inch off the bracket so the caliper will get low enough to allow the pads to fully engage the rotors.

http://www.voltage.net/~rmwc/zpix_files/stuff/DSCN1034tn_.JPG
Connect the lines (they bolt right up!) and install the pads. Put the calipers in position and bleed the air out of them. Have a buddy hold his foot on the brake pedal to keep the calipers in position and spot weld them.

http://www.voltage.net/~rmwc/zpix_files/stuff/DSCN1036tn_.JPG
Remove the hubs and caliper and WELD THE SNOT OUT OF THEM! Remember to shield the spindle so spatter doesn't get on the bearing race or the seal area!

http://www.voltage.net/~rmwc/zpix_files/stuff/DSCN1039tn_.JPG
Remember, this is welding dissimilar metals again. Make sure to only lay about 3/4 inch beads at a time and "ping" the weld with a chipping hammer until cool. This is very important. Also use a high Nickel rod like "High Alloy 500." If you don't like welding dissimilar metals you could easily make a bracket and bolt them up.

http://www.voltage.net/~rmwc/zpix_files/stuff/DSCN1041tn_.JPG
This is what the finished product looks like without wheels and tires.

http://www.voltage.net/~rmwc/zpix_files/stuff/DSCN1042tn_.JPG
Here's with the wheels and tires back on. OH MAN!! I FEEL THE HAPPY BUBLES PERCOLATING!! Bubble, bubble, bubble.... :smile:

John

you guys have some crazy ideas. how much did it improve braking? how much wieght did you save?

Nathan

I don't even know what percolating means, but it looks like another sweet junkyard solution! :thumbsup:

LOL...I'm really glad mine came with all wheel disk brakes. One less thing to worry about.

you guys have some crazy ideas. how much did it improve braking? how much wieght did you save?

Nathan

It saved about 20#. The braking went from mediocre to awesome. It stops like my one ton truck with hydroboost!

Risko wrote:
I don't even know what percolating means, but it looks like another sweet junkyard solution!

Brandon,

It's a takeoff of the Zoloft comercial showing happy bubbles in the brain. http://www.zoloft.com/index.asp?pageid=44 But..... when you're into ghetto fab and wheelin', YOU DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' ZOLOFT!! We make our own happy bubbles!!

John

It saved about 20#. The braking went from mediocre to awesome. It stops like my one ton truck with hydroboost!

John


:thumb:


Nathan

Nice!

Once you go disks, you can never go back.

the 9" conversion is easy too.

Cody

Ya, stock ZJ brakes suck. I couldn't believe how well she stopped when I went to Lincoln discs on the rear nine inch.

I don't think I read everything right John, did you weld the caliper brackets to the spindle?

Jay

I don't think I read everything right John, did you weld the caliper brackets to the spindle?

Jay

Jay,

We welded them to the flat top of the backplate mounting surface. Look at the 5th and 6th picture in the first post above.

John

When I saw the first pic of all the parts needed I thought you were gonna mount the rotor on the driveshaft ( only 1 rotor and 1 caliper in the pic)like the monster trucks do.(you're part way there ;) ) I was actually sorta disappointed when I saw you put them on both rear wheels.

Looks great :thumbsup:

When I saw the first pic of all the parts needed I thought you were gonna mount the rotor on the driveshaft ( only 1 rotor and 1 caliper in the pic)like the monster trucks do.(you're part way there ;) ) I was actually sorta disappointed when I saw you put them on both rear wheels.

Looks great :thumbsup:

Sorry to disappoint you! :lol: But, it really does stop great. :cool:

John

Trust me....the Zebra never disappoints me. You've got an awesome rig and have done some great work to it.

John- is it me or is there a very minimal amount of space b/w the top of the caliper assembly and the edge of the wheel. maybe its just the angle of the pic, but it looks like it ws close

John- is it me or is there a very minimal amount of space b/w the top of the caliper assembly and the edge of the wheel. maybe its just the angle of the pic, but it looks like it ws close

Yeah,

It is close. We did it first on a rig with steel wheels and there was plenty of room. With my aluminum wheels, I should have ground the welded surface down 1/4 inch instead of 1/8 inch. It clears, but just barely.

John

Man that caliper stand trick ROCKS!!!!

I assume that those are 2wd caliper stands? I always pass those over. Now I have a reason to stop!

Cheers
Bob

I assume that those are 2wd caliper stands?
Bob

10-4

1976-1995 Dodge "Light Truck" 2wd front calipers.

John